That was until I received an invitation to spend a night at Bushmans Kloof hotel. I had plans to meet the president and save the world that night, but I cancelled everything so that I could go to the Cederberg. I’m glad I did.

Bushman’s Kloof is about a two hour drive away from Cape Town, at the foothills of the Cederberg mountains. Making it perfect for those wanting to get away from the hustle and bustle of the city. In fact, the cellphone reception is sketchy at best so you really do get away from it all. The area is very unique and offers an extraordinary experience.

There are so many elements that together are Bushmans Kloof. Many places have a wide offering but focus on their speciality. With Bushmans Kloof it’s difficult to work out what the speciality is because everything is done so well. I was impressed over and over again. I guess that’s what makes it one of the best hotels in the world.

The first thing that impressed was the suite. There are only 16 rooms and suites plus the private villa called Koro Lodge, which sleeps eight. It’s certainly luxury accommodation. Not only is it very spacious and beautifully appointed, but also has all the mod cons like iPod docking station, flat screen TV and DVD player.

The next thing that impressed me was the spa. Apart from the usual gamut of treatments and products, there is an outdoor spa gazebo by the river’s edge. That’s a unique experience and it can be enjoyed with a partner.

Then I was blown away with food. Chef Floris Smith knows what he is doing. We had a seven course menu which showcased the new a la carte menu that had just been developed. It was amazing and very original. Here’s a sample dish: Seared Norwegian salmon layered with homemade lasagne, green asparagus, hazelnuts and a wasabi & white chocolate sauce. Sounds weird, but it was awesome. A visit to Bushmans Kloof definitely includes a culinary treat. What makes it all the more impressive is that they have a huge food garden which is quite amazing to behold. Much of the fresh fruit and veg comes from the garden. Also, let’s not forget the wine list and there is a reason they have done well in the Diners Club International Wine List of the Year Award for the last six years.

What makes Bushmans Kloof a very special place is its location. The area is very unusual, with a beauty all it’s own. There are a large number of animals and birds in the reserve. We enjoyed a sunset game drive and saw many animals. The following morning we did an early morning rock art drive to see and learn about the Bushman paintings. I was impressed with the knowledge of the guide on both drives. In fact, the staff are all very well trained. Bushmans Kloof is involved in many conservation programs and is also restoring the area after it was previously subjected to abusive farming practices.

It is tempting to try and speed up the restoration process as fynbos grows slowly, but they have opted for the more natural but slow and expensive process of letting the area restore itself in a natural, balanced way. Nature lovers will enjoy the many walks and hikes that are available in the area around the resort.

The Bushmans Kloof experience is a combination of all of these things and that’s what makes it one of the best hotels in the world.

Bushmans Kloof Wilderness Reserve & Wellness Retreat
Tel: +27 21 481 1860
http://www.bushmanskloof.co.za/

My one complaint is that there is no internet access for guests. Even if you make the effort to go and use their business centre, you still have to pay for internet access. That is actually ridiculous in this day and age. I can assure you that a night at the Cullinan is not cheap, you can’t tell me that they can’t afford to give you 50MB per night of your stay? That would be enough to check emails and Facebook and one or two other things. I can understand an additional charge for those that want to use the internet extensively for business or entertainment. This is something I expect from a Road Lodge or Formula 1, not a Southern Sun hotel. Video after the link –>

Here is the link to the Cullinan Hotel website.

In this video I mention that the mini bar is empty but I think that is at the request of SAB. There were about 30 of us on the SAB heritage tour and I guess they didn’t want everyone emptying the mini bar on SAB’s account, which is reasonable.

I also didn’t show you the view, which was really beautiful. The room overlooked the golf course with mountains in the background.

The last thing is the DSTV, I wasn’t impressed with the limited channel selection.

So, here goes:

Now, back to Nabygelegen…

There are many great wine estates in the better known wine regions like Stellenbosch and Franschhoek, etc. However, they are generally quite commercial and the wine tasting experience itself often lacks personality. You generally pay your fee and choose five wines to taste while someone (normally a student) pours them for you and recites the information about the wine. This is why most people who have done a fair amount of tasting will seek out the smaller, less well known estates, hoping for a more personalised experience.

Nabygelegen is one of these smaller estates. There is no fancy restaurant to attract you (although they are opening a deli soon, so that might change), nor a big brand name to dazzle you. It’s a fairly small estate where the owner grows the grapes and makes the wine. James McKenzie purchased the farm in 2001 and has put in an immense amount of work, not only with the wine but also the buildings which have a tremendous history. This has resulted in a beautiful and enormous guesthouse, in which we spent the weekend.

I have been known to rough it before, but I really do like luxury so when I walked into the guesthouse I immediately started plotting how I could move in permanently. Unfortunately all the options I came up with involved having to hurt James and he’s too nice a guy. So we spent a very pleasant weekend there and left very reluctantly. If I remember the story correctly, the guesthouse was originally the farm manager’s house and was damaged by fire. It has now been beautifully restored but things like the incredibly thick walls hint at it’s history. The guesthouse is separate from the main house, in fact you have to walk back to the driveway and continue down the road the access the main house. See my (very amateur) pics below for an idea of what the guesthouse looks like. As you walk in there is a bedroom to the left and another to the right. They are huge, each containing a small lounge suite in addition to the king size bed. Each room also has its own bathroom and veranda. If you continue straight into the house, in front of you is one big open plan room. First the lounge, then the 10 seater dining room table, then the kitchen. The kitchen leads onto a veranda and a few metres from the veranda is the swimming pool.

If we had stayed longer we so would have had people over for dinner around that dining room table and cooked up a storm in that kitchen, but we didn’t get to do any of that. We did however get to lounge by the pool which was awesome, especially as there are vines about a metre away. The house has a very homely feel. It’s luxurious but not five star (small things like single ply toilet paper, hard towels, no soap, etc). I don’t really know what the current situation with the guesthouse is, I know they are looking for a manager so perhaps it’s not being fully serviced. We were staying as invited guests, so wouldn’t expect the full service. We loved the place and would recommend it to anyone spending some time in the area.

Now onto the wine tasting experience. We started tasting outside, at a table under the trees. We tasted the Nabygelegen Lady Anna, a blend of chenin, sauvignon blanc and semillon. I found the wine to be nicely balanced, crisp and easy drinking. Next we had the Nabygelegen chenin which isn’t shy on the wood, giving it a complex character. The reason I specify that they were Nabygelegen wines is that they also have a range called Snow Mountain which is made from grapes grown high up in the nearby mountains. We tried the very dry Snow Mountain rosé which is made from merlot grapes. This one split the camp with some loving it and others hating it.

Next we were taken into the barrel cellar where we had a little introduction to the winemaking philosophy at Nabygelegen. We also got to taste the new Sauvignon Blanc straight from the tank before being ushered downstairs to the private wine cellar. We all huddled around a small table, surrounded by James’ personal wine collection. It feels like a secret club meeting down there and I don’t know if that changes the way the wine tastes but I was blown away by what we tasted down there (I am mainly a red wine drinker).

We started with the Snow Mountain Pinot Noir, an awesome wine which Neil Pendock rated 5 stars. Then we moved onto the Scaramanga, which caught my attention as it contains tempranillo, a Spanish varietal which can be very temperamental! It also contains cabernet sauvignon, merlot and malbec, all combining to create an awesome wine. My favourites were the Snow Mountain shiraz and the Nabygelegen 1712, their bordeaux blend. Their wines are amazingly well priced and you can order directly from the estate for delivery in Cape Town. See the website details below.

For another perspective on our visit to Nabygelegen, read this blog post by the perfect wedding date, who spent the weekend there with me.

You can view the gallery with my pictures of Nabygelegen here.

Here is the Nabygelegen website.

- There is valet parking so you get out at the door and don’t have to pay for parking. Even tipping the valet is cheaper than Waterfront parking and you save ten minutes walking from and to the parking.
- The drinks are not expensive. You can get standard cocktails (eg. Mojito) for R40. There aren’t many decent bars in Cape Town that charge that or less.
- The cocktails are great. Not only are the standard cocktails executed well by the obviously well trained barmen, but they have a selection of interesting cocktails which are unique to the Vista bar.
- The bar is open late. I like to go to Vista Bar after dinner for a night cap and I like the fact that it’s not crowded and smoky.
- They have decent music playing. The One & Only hires Cape Town’s top DJs to lay down some uplifting beats most nights of the week until late.

Why else do I visit the One & Only? Well, I’ve eaten at Nobu several times and one of those occasions provided one of the best meals I’ve ever had in South Africa. I ate at Maze several times too, before it closed down. I’ve also attended several functions at the One & Only, including the American Express Platinum Fine Dining Awards, the ‘Island Parties’ which happened during summer and more. One occasion I was given a tour of the rooms and was really impressed. So you can imagine there was no hesitation in accepting the offer of a weekend at the hotel with a spa treatment thrown in.

The Arrival

I want to live at the One & Only. My two nights there were incredible and I was very sad to leave. Months later I still go and eat there or have a drink at the bar pretending to myself that I still stay there (I also pretend to the waiter when the bill comes). Staying at the One & Only is a very relaxing experience. From check in to check out, you never have to give a second thought to anything (except maybe how you’re going to pay for it). I might go into some detail in this review, because I think the detail is what makes the One & Only the experience it is. In stark contrast to my stressful arrival at 15 on Orange recently, arriving at the One & Only is a very pleasant experience. As you pull up to the front door, a valet opens your door and hands you a retrieval ticket while a porter waits to assist you with your luggage should you be checking in. Stepping inside, you are allowed a few seconds to digest the impressive foyer before being directed to one of several check-in desks. There is no reception counter, just several desks where you can take a seat and check in comfortably. After being handed your security card, you are escorted to your room by the porter and a butler.

The Rooms

Each room has a butler that assists you with any requirements you may have. The butler quickly explains the less obvious elements of the suite (eg. How to operate the TV and which button on the phone to push to call the butler), and on the way out offers to have your shoes polished and your dress/shirt ironed for the evening. If you’re feeling a bit overwhelmed, you may not be ready to peruse the pillow menu, but when you are you can select which type/types of pillow you would like. There are about five options, including special support pillows and hypo allergenic pillows. If you’re in the mood for looking at menus, then you can also peruse the bath menu. On request, your butler will draw a bath for you and include your selection of oils and/or salts. We had an appointment at the spa, but decided there was enough time to investigate the room a little. Each room has a balcony with chairs and a table, all the more appealing because every room overlooks the island and has views of Table Mountain (apart from the rooms on the Island which are even bigger and are right next to the water). Heading back inside we spent a couple of minutes trying to figure out how to use the espresso machine (it’s quite simple once it’s plugged in). Then we modelled the summer and winter gowns and slippers before realising we were now late for our spa appointment.

The Spa

The One & Only Spa is pretty impressive. We were ushered into our respective changing rooms where we traded our clothes for a gown and slippers. Then we were escorted to our treatment room (one of twelve, I believe). My partner said it was one of the best massages she has ever had (she has them often), but I’m a bit of a wimp so I spent a lot of the time being thankful that I asked for medium and not hard. After the massage we spent some time frolicking in the vitality pool and sauna in our respective changing rooms.

The Food

Back to the room and we relaxed a bit before heading down to dinner at Maze. Maze has subsequently closed and been replaced by Reuben’s. It still has the biggest wine collection in the Southern Hemisphere (or something like that) though. On the second night we ate at Nobu and that was amazing fabulous. Read that review here. Breakfasts were done by Maze, so one morning we ate in the restaurant and the other morning we ordered room service. I quite enjoyed breakfast in the room.

The Facilities

On the second day I had a tour of the hotel facilities. The conferencing/function facilities are quite substantial and the business centre has all you need. The hotel has free wifi and each room has a desk and chair so working on a laptop is no problem. Two things really impressed me about the One & Only, the kids entertainment facility and the gym. Many hotels think that offering interleading rooms makes them family friendly, but none of them offer the kids facilities that the One & Only offers. They can entertain kids of all ages for the entire day and then provide a babysitter in your room in the evening. The kids zone is divided into areas for each age group with relevant crafts, games, etc for each age group. They even do outings. As for the gym, it was really impressive. Normally hotel gyms are tiny rooms with a treadmill or two but the One & Only gym is huge with a huge array of the latest equipment and personal trainers to assist guests with their workouts.

Final Thoughts

In summary, there’s a very good reason the One & Only markets itself as a six star hotel. There is just no comparison between the One & Only and the many other five star hotels. Everything is taken to another level, whether it be service or facilities. Whether it’s worth R7000 per night, or thereabouts, I’d say no because I don’t think anything ever could be. But they are often running specials and that could make it worthwhile, especially if it’s a special occasion. You really will leave feeling pampered and be prepared for the shock after you’ve left and you realise you’re not the most important person in the world.

Introduction
African Pride Hotels is the luxury hotel brand of the Protea Hotel Group. The Crystal Towers Hotel in Century City is also an African Pride Hotel. They are designed to be modern and luxurious. It is apparent that no expense has been spared (eg. extensive Volokas marble flooring, 20 000 Murano crystal links in the bar), although whether the money has been spent wisely is not as obvious.

Location
15 on Orange is located in Gardens, a suburb of the Cape Town central business district. This is useful for business people, and particularly convenient for government employees as it is close to parliament and several other government buildings. Hotels in town often have a problem with parking but 15 on Orange has more bays than rooms so that will not be an issue (but you will pay for the parking).

First Impressions
15 on Orange is a little confusing on arrival. The front entrance does not house the reception, only the concierge desk. You need to make your way up two flights or take the elevator to the 1st floor to check in. While disconcerting, it’s not challenging at all. What is challenging, however, is trying to find your way back to you car later on. I resorted to the valet parking service to save myself the trouble. This strange layout continues into the common areas, where a first time visitor will struggle to know how to access the restaurant.

The staff came across as friendly and competent. Although there seemed to be a communication breakdown between the front desk and the restaurant as my dinner reservation change was not conveyed to the correct people.

Facilities
There is a business centre with several cubicles containing PCs connected to the Internet. There are some conferencing rooms, one large presentation room and two smaller boardrooms. The hotel has a spa for those needing to de-stress. The pool is situated on the roof, although it gets very windy up there and the view is of the city, not water, which feels strange. There are some shops currently under construction but I imagine these will cater for the various needs of the guests.

The hotel also has its own spa. I did not have any treatments but did have a tour around the facility and it seems to have all the necessary equipment, etc.

Rooms
There are 129 rooms, categorised into standard (41), pod (4), 2 bedroom (4), deluxe (66), superior (11) and disabled (3). I spent a night in a standard suit and another night in a pod suite. The rooms are quite spacious. The pod suite has an open plan bedroom bathroom which is quite unusual, I quite liked it but it’s not very private (toilet and shower have doors).

The rooms have high quality finishings and furnishings. They also have some great features like a workstation with a plug point for your laptop, and an iPod dock and free wireless internet. Again, a great feature for business people. Other memorable features were the large flat screen TV with a good selection of channels, as well as a selection of DVDs which you can watch at your leisure (more available from reception on request). Air conditioning, extra length king size beds, hairdryer, quality bedding, coffee & tea station and mini bar and safe (big enough for a laptop) were some of the additional features.

The bathrooms were also quite spacious, modern and pleasant. I liked their choice in soaps and shampoos, good quality stuff.

Restaurant
The main hotel restaurant is called Savour, but there is a coffee shop for lighter meals as well as a menu available at the Judges bar if you need a snack or even a snack platter. Dinner at Savour was remarkably expensive, my partner and I shared a bottle of wine and enjoyed three courses and the bill came to approximately R1000. At those prices I was expecting some of the best food in Cape Town, it wasn’t. I did not drink at the Murano bar (which is reserved for guests, while the Judges bar is open to visitors), but I hear that the cocktails are very expensive, around R90 for some standards. The food & beverage manager informed me that they were busy repricing the cocktail list but that the cocktails would still be above R70.

The restaurant is situated in the hotel lobby. It does manage to retain some atmosphere but it is quite distracting as people walk to and fro around you. The service was adequate, but uncoordinated as we had several waiters come over to ask us the same questions several times.

The breakfast buffet spread was lovely, but a full English breakfast is priced at R185 which is quite heavy. The rest of the a la carte options had no prices attached, I would be afraid to order them.

Conclusion
While there was mention made of ‘family suites’, 15 on Orange is definitely geared towards business people. It does not have a relaxed atmosphere and I certainly couldn’t picture kids running around the lobby.

The room prices (around R3000 per night per room) and bar/restaurant prices indicate that 15 on Orange is one of the best hotels in Cape Town. I don’t believe it is, in fact the restaurant will attract no outside diners with that value proposition. In this price range you have a selection of top hotels available to you.

One thing which was of great concern to me is that during my tour of the hotel there was not one mention of eco initiatives. It’s a recently constructed building and yet it seems that no thought was given to natural light or temperature control. There seems to be no awareness or interest in environmental practices in the running of the hotel either. Every room we went into had the lights on even though it was not being used. The lobby was well lit by the magnificent glass wall at the end, and yet all the lights were on in the lobby. 15 on Orange creates the impression that luxury and environmental awareness are mutually exclusive and I believe that is a mindset that cannot continue.

Snag list

The soap dish in the shower doesn’t drain
The chair for the desk in the room is too low and not adjustable
Wireless Internet did not work, they had to provide me with a voucher